San Francisco’s Fleet Week brings Navy ships, jets, leap frogs and other
military demos to the city for an extended weekend of celebration.
|U.S. Navy Demonstration Squadron Blue Angels shows precisions of flying during Fleet Week in San Francisco.|
It all started in San Diego back in 1935, after the first world war
and before the second, when President Franklin D. Roosevelt decided it
was time to beef up the U.S. Navy. That June, under orders to strut
their stuff and help generate interest, some 3,000 commissioned military
officers and 55,000 enlisted men brought more than 100 warships and 400
military planes to San Diego during the California Pacific
International Exposition, opened vessels to tours and put on spectacular
air shows. Thus began Fleet Week, and various waterfront cities around
the nation have held celebrations since.
and it has since become a gold standard for other cities’ events,
bringing some 1 million people into the city for a long weekend. San
Francisco’s Fleet Week takes place on the extended Columbus Day weekend.
(The event runs Oct. 5–12 this year, with the concentration of events
on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and dwindling by Monday.) It brings crowds
to the Marina-Fisherman’s Wharf area for its air show (the Navy’s Blue
Angels perform at several points during the event), parade of ships and
vessel tours, and demonstrations of working canines and interactive
disaster preparedness routines at the Humanitarian Village held at
Marina Green Park.
Francisco. What’s more, it’s San Francisco on a holiday weekend during a
traditionally beautiful-weather month. The city will be packed. Ditch
the car somewhere else—across the bay, preferably—and ferry or BART in.
It takes some planning, but riding the city’s public transportation
system, with its streetcars and buses and cable cars, far surpasses
trying to do it yourself, even with navigation and someone directionally
gifted riding shotgun. A taxi is one of the cheapest ways to get from
Point A to Point B—even cheaper than Uber last time we were there—and
perfect for those few-block stretches that might involve cumbersome bus
transfers or steep-steep hills or when those strappy sandals aren’t
going another step.
Angels and including performances by the U.S. Coast Guard, the Navy Leap
Frogs, The Patriots jet team and others, draws the biggest crowds, and
people line the waterfront every afternoon angling for a glimpse. For
about 50 bucks, you can guarantee you’ve got a seat in the shoreline
grandstand. The chair is yours for the day, which allows you to wander
among the exhibits and concessions, then come sink down to watch the
show as you wish.
Fleet Week is a model for other Fleet Week celebrations around the
country in part because of its focus on military-civilian collaboration
in disaster preparedness. At the Humanitarian Village, get involved: A
passport guides you through four theme camps, including mass care and
shelter (think pop-up hospitals), environmental management and
decontamination (you might get a sip of desalinated sea water), and
power and utilities (discover the glory in generators). By the end of
the event, you’ll have mad skills and a new appreciation for dogs, and
you might be giving serious thought to formulating an actual plan for
the day the next big earthquake hits.
of ships kicks off the event, with each participating boat crossing
beneath the Golden Gate to enter the bay. They’ll glide through on
Friday morning, usually between 10 and 11 o’clock, and each one parks at
its designated pier along the Embarcadero and opens to the public for
free tours during specific hours over the next several days. Alcatraz
Island provides one of the best viewing spots for the parade—reserve an
early-morning spot on the Alcatraz ferry and you’ll be perfectly
positioned out at the rock. Get prepared before you tour the ships
parked at the piers: Keep up with the Fleet Week website to check for
tour times, which often shift, and take heed of rules, which may include
showing government identification, wearing closed-toe shoes and
bringing no children younger than 8. Also, arrive early and expect to
wait in line. Show up late and you could be looking at a three-hour
wait, and imagine how mad you’d be if you got turned away because you’re
the greatest ways to experience Fleet Week is to walk the water’s edge
from the Presidio to the St. Francis Yacht Club harbor, through Fort
Mason and Aquatic Park. This stroll provides a premier vantage point to
see the boats bobbing on the bay—multiplied exponentially during Fleet
Week—and, best of all, a way to view the afternoon air shows for free.
Expect lots of picnickers, exercisers and dogs. On Sunday morning, the
Fort Mason farmers market makes a great grub stop; also in Fort Mason,
Readers Bookstore and Goody Cafe sells darn good coffee and carries
a varied selection of books, all to benefit the Friends of the San
Francisco Public Library; drop in when the sun feels too bright and take
a break. Try for a seat at Greens, the gorgeous and famous vegetarian
restaurant at Fort Mason, where views of the harbor and the Golden Gate
Bridge from the light-splashed dining room invite you to linger.
Angels practice on Thursday and Friday afternoons, treating San
Francisco to air show previews between noon and 4 or 5 p.m.
cruise on any of the tour boats that operate out of Pier 39 or
Fisherman’s Wharf. Red and White Fleet runs two-and-a-half-hour air show
cruises Friday, Saturday and Sunday afternoons for $70; picnic fare is
included. Blue & Gold Fleet’s air show cruises run each afternoon as
well, and the $85 ticket includes a buffet lunch and a hosted full bar.
Another option: the $120 brunch aboard Hornblower Cruises & Events’
San Francisco Belle, with unlimited champagne, Irish coffee and other
libations, available Saturday and Sunday. Hornblower also runs an air
show practice lunch cruise on Friday for $85.
always-bustling tourist destination heaves with even more activity
during Fleet Week, with military demonstrations and live musical
entertainment. Pier 39’s back deck is a prime spot for you to watch the
air show, fish and chips or ice cream cone in hand.
a mile from Marina Green Park, the Argonaut Hotel, right across
from Hyde Street Pier, has the perfect decor for a boat-themed weekend.
With rich nautical colors—navy, deep red, golden-yellow—and maritime
accents such as anchors and compasses and ship’s wheels, it’s a boutique
hotel with rates that start around $230 a night. Also in the vicinity,
the Fairmont Heritage Place at Ghirardelli Square makes an ideal home
away from home, with one-, two- and three-bedroom residences situated
conveniently above the Ghirardelli Chocolate Factory storefront across
from Aquatic Park.
With a waterfront of shops, galleries and restaurants, and the
Tiburon-Angel Island ferry also running air show cruises the afternoons
of Oct. 10 and 11, the community allows you to experience a bit of Fleet
Week without the intensity of the mob scene. You’ll miss the ship tours
and the booths and military fanfare, but you can catch the air show
either from the ferry, the shoreline park (rent some bikes from Demo
Sport to pedal along the path) or the deck at Sam’s Anchor Cafe (the
best spot in town for a ridiculously large weekend brunch and too much
the bay at the pretty Waters Edge Hotel. Waters Edge is smaller, with 23
guest rooms, each with a fireplace, and the continental breakfast adds
to the value—room rates start at about $270 a night. The Lodge at
Tiburon, with 103 rooms and rates beginning around $200, includes a
poolside fire pit and patio perfect for winding down with a glass of
Oct. 5–12, with most activities taking place Oct. 9–11